Thursday, May 13, 2021

Removing rust from the car..

  1. Initial preparation.
    1. Wash the car. The entire car. Usually during the work, we often find some unexpected spots to be painted.. So it is better that the car is already washed by that time.
    2. Whole part vs small piece. Consider painting the whole car or the whole part of the car instead of small stains. E. g. if there are multiple stains on the same door, it is easier to repair the whole door. So we can save time and improve quality of the car for the future. We don't need to spend time for sticking pieces of paper to cover door partially. We just clean everything, sand everything, prime everything and than paint everything. Eventually getting the new door as a result.
    3. Working clothes. Dress on working clothes, do be afraid to stay dirty. We don't want our best suit to be randomly painted.
    4. Water source. Make sure that there is a water source nearby so I can clean hands, face or eyes very fast in case of chemical polluting.
    5. Cover everything. Food and other stuff are sensitive to dust, dirt and exhaust.
    6. Air conditioning. Room of the building should be well ventilated. The best option is the garage with the open car door. It provides good ventilation and at the same time protection from the rain.
    7. Respirator. Take on the respirator to protect the lung from dust. Simple mask doesn't provide a lot of protection like respirator. So if I don't have a respirator I merely hold my breath for a minute while working on certain area. Respirator is needed both for painting and for grinding (sanding). It might take some time to move respirator around the nose up and down to make sure it is tigh. If if is not tigh, we feel air flowing out near upper part of the nose breathing outflow.
    8. Rain protection. Make all the steps of the work are done not outside. It is highly recommended that the car does not leave the garage / shelter until absolutely all the work is done.
  2. Sanding
    1. Alcohol. Before sanding, cure the surface area with the alcohol. So during sanding we don't mix any surface oils deep in the metal.
    2. Take the car out of the garage. Otherwise, everything in the garage will be covered by dust as a result of sanding.
    3. Power tools. Always use power tools when you can instead of sandpaper. Sanding is really time consuming process and power tools would save us hours of work, sometimes even days. 
    4. Sandpaper. Otherwise, use sandpaper graded as P80 (the lower the grade the more aggressive sand paper is). Clear rust with sandpaper. Sand down the area. Use metal file in hard cases lol. Paint around the damaged area should also receive a good sanding, since the filler doesn't stick well to paint, wet, or humid surfaces. Use40-120 grit sandpaper.
    5. Difficult areas. To access difficult areas, use thin metal brush attached to the drill.
    6. Brush. Power tools with brushing add on are preferred. We can vacuum dust also.
    7. Back of the surface. Take a look at the back of the surface - it also could be rusty. Clean it up with the water to remove all the dirt. Then look for a rust there.
  3. Rust converter.
    1. Vs rust remover. It is easy to mess rust converter vs rust remover. The stuff we really need to eventually paint the car part is rust converter, nog the rust remover. Rust remover is for hardware such as interior of the engine etc which is not to be painted later.
    2. Rubber gloves. For steps below, take on rubber gloves. To protect hands skin and to avoid excessive hand wash, especially if water is limited in the garage.
    3. Alcohol. Before rust remover, apply alcohol to remove excessive fat from the surface.
    4. Shake. Shake the rust converter bottle before use.
    5. Rust remover. Use rust converter liquid after sandpaper work, to make sure there is no rust at all. 
    6. Separate bottle. Put some part of a bit of rust converter to the separate bottle, so the brush will not damage the initial stock of rust converter. The bottle should be plastic not metal.
    7. Apply the rust converter with a brush or sponge. Wipe a thin layer of rust converter onto the metal and wait 15 to 30 minutes for it to dry. Some rust converters require to wait up to 1 day, read the instructions. Then add a second layer and wait at least a half hour for it to dry. Instead of rust converter, vinegar also could be used. Some rust converters require 2 step application with difference of say half an hour. So read the instructions for the particular rust converter carefully. 
    8. Don't put rust converter from the temporary bottle back to the initial bottle.
    9. Do not use the following rust converter because of its poor quality (I checked)
  4. Body filler.
    1. Alcohol. Cure the surface with alcohol to clean any oils.
    2. Dent the metal. Before body filler, to let body filler properly stick to the metal.
    3. Prepare putty knife. Before using your putty knife to spread joint compound, wood glue or construction adhesive, stick a piece of clear packing tape onto the blade. 
    4. Also clean putty knife from the previous putty leftovers if it wasn't done yet.
    5. Body filler. Like "Bondo". Use the one with the fiber glass. Use body filler, paint all the surface after rust. If there is a huge gap (hole) in the metal, apply body patch also. To mix body filler in a right proportion, make a circle 1/2 inch height of body filler and cross it with the thin line of hardener. Use scissors or screw driver to open the can with the body filler if it is difficult to open. 
    6. Multiple lawyers. Use two or three thinner applications with obtuse angle of the putty knife if needed, rather than one deep layer, which is harder to apply smoothly and may sag before it sets.
    7. Positive experience. Good experience was with the following body filler:
    8. Clean putty knife. Chisel can be used for that. Or grinder with sanding wheels.
    9. Dry. Usually 15-20 minutes, but check out the manufacturer instructions for the particular body filler to be 100 percent sure.
  5. Sanding after body filler. Following instructions I took from here
    1. Take the car out of the garage. Otherwise, everything in the garage will be covered by dust.
    2. When the filler is hard, use 240 grit production paper. Power sanders can speed up this part of the job but care must be taken not to remove too much of the filler, particularly if using rotary sanding disks. Final shaping is best done with a flat sanding block with abrasive paper attached. Sand in straight lines, changing direction regularly to avoid sanding low spots or grooves into the filler. For the same reason never sand in a circular motion as this removes filler too quickly from the same spot. Once the filler seems to be very near the required shape change to a finer grade paper, eventually finishing with higher grit. Small pinholes and low spots are usually filled with `stopper', which is basically just a very fine filler. Polyester Stoppers are used in exactly the same way as body filler, but are meant for use on smaller areas. Cellulose Stopper, or cellulose putty as it is sometime called, requires lengthy drying times between coats and is still prone to later sinkage. Very thin coats are an absolute must, with at least 30 mins between, preferably longer. 
    3. For grinder, use flap disc instead of Velcro disk.
    4. Finish with the sanding sponge to make the form even.
  6. Paint
    1. For all the steps below
      1. Garage protection. Don't move the car. There is no need to take the car out of the garage. Painting does not produce dust. So just make sure that your clothes and any stuff in the garage are not so valuable to be damaged by painting. The only most important task is to close or remove all the food and drinks out of the area.
      2. Car protection
        1. Intend of protection. Before painting, protect the surrounding areas of the car. Otherwise, we can paint something that we don't need to pain like mirrors or windows lol.
        2. Material for protection. Big piece of fabric is the best. Or big piece of film. The bigger the piece the more convenient it is to cover because we don't need to tape numerous small pieces to the car and to each other. or plastic film is perfect. We can use cardboard for large areas (like the front windshield), but all the edges of the cardboard should be sticked with tape because the cardboard per se is not tight to the car surface, so the paint spray could leak in between them.
        3. Area of protection.
          1. Critical parts. The most critical are parts of the car made of glass: windshields, mirrors. Though the paint could be cleaned from the glass afterwards, it is better to protect the area beforehand. 
          2. Painting without primer. Sometimes we use paint without primer, e. g. when we need to paint putty only, not the metal. We suppose that we use paint of the same color as the color of the remaining car parts. Then, we don't need to protect surrounding areas other than glass and door handles. Because paint of the same color would not harm car parts of the same color.
        4. Tape to choose. There is special "painters tape" in the store. Be careful with the tape. Some types of the tape like duck tape leave trace at the car's body that is not easy to remove later. Even regular plastic "scotch" packing tape can do this. It is better to stick the tape on the glass not on the painted metal. Otherwise sometimes the tape is removed from the painted part of the car together with paint.
      3. Human protection. Put on glasses, rubber gloves and a respirator. Instead of the respirator, I could hold my breath if the painting area is not so big. Then run away from the garage to breath again lol.
      4. Paint protection. To protect future paint from bubbling out as a result of poor quality of the surface we need to prepare the surface. Alcohol is the way to remove redundant fats, oils etc from the surface. Apply alcohol at each step - before priming, before painting, before using lacquer.
      5. Tools. Depending on the surface, liquid can be applied by spray, brush or roller. Good guide to the foam painting is here 
      6. Warm up the liquid. Place the can of the liquid in the bucket with warm water. Particular temperature is to be determined based on the instructions for the particular liquid. Usually it is around 20 degree by Celsius.
      7. Shake it. This is for sprays only. Whether it is primer, paint or lacquer - everything needs to be shaked for 2-3 minutes vigorously. We should hear the ball rattling around inside the can.
      8. Way of spraying. This is for sprays only. Spray in short smooth strokes from side to side across the metal, holding the can about 10 inches from the surface. 2-3 coats of spray should be plenty. Some manufacturers recommend to apply 2-3 layers with the interval of 30-60 minutes.
      9. Dry. Primer, paint and lacquer should dry for in average 1-3 hours before applying the next layer of the next spray. Read the instructions for the articular liquid though. Some of them might need up to 24 hours to dry.
    2. Priming
      1. Negative experience. With the following trademark.. This bottle is constantly leaking and spreading primer on everything around 360 degree circle.

      2. Intend of use. Make sure that the primer is formulated for use on metal.
      3. Color. Though it is not so important, it is better if the primer color matches future paint color.
      4. Use brush. It is better to spray primer on brush and then apply it with a brush on the surface. Otherwise it could spray surrounding areas. Primer color is different from paint, so then we need to paint again all the surrounding surface.
      5. Self-etching primer. Paint it on the area. Water-based (latex) primers shouldn’t be used on metal surfaces, as moisture can seep through and cause paint to fail within weeks or months. If we used body filler, epoxy primer can be applied on a body filler before painting.
    3. Paint
      1. Paint color. Find the paint color at the drivers side interior label, near of the bottom of the driver's door. It contains the code of the manufacturer car color. Note that if the car was repainted at some point of time, the code would differ. Don't try to find certain code in the local store - usually it sells only regular colors like pure white, pure black etc. Usually certain color paint can be ordered online.
      2. Intend of use. Make sure paint instructions say that it is intended for use on a metal.
      3. Way of painting. Result depends on the distance between spray can and the surface and interval time between lawyers. The bigger the distance and the bigger the interval, the better the results. Otherwise, paint can come out if we spray too close to the area. Spray multiple lawyers at 3-5 minutes intervals. Each lawyer makes surface darker. So apply more lawyers until the color becomes the same as of the original paint around. Apply at 25-30 cm distance or bigger. If the distance or frequency of lawyers is lower, the paint will be too thick and can come out later (wrinkling). So we need to wait for each thin layer to dry. Otherwise, liquid lawyer will remain under new lawyer and everything can come out later.
      4. Repaint if needed. If the paint wrinkles, take it out with the same plastic tool as used for door clips removal. Any thin plastic knife or spoon also can be used. Unlike sanding paper, plastic tool doesn't harm metal and primer.
    1. Lacquer.
      1. Apply the lacquer in the same way as painting.
  1. Finish.
    1. Take the car out of the garage. Otherwise, everything in the garage will be covered by dust during sanding that follows.
    2. Sandpaper. Sandpaper with high grade like 1500. Move sand paper back and forth, not with circular motion. After that, use higher graded sandpaper like 2000. Use salt water with the sandpaper.
    3. Polishing. Optional.
    4. Waxing. Optional.

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